Diary Entry: Day 4

By: Dominique Staindl

12 July 2009

For those of you frequenting our blog, I have the pleasure of informing you that the header for In Search of Yogyakarta 2009 is from one of the places we visited today. Phew! What a day. A lot of the pathfinders here may remember today as the one with the walking. That, we did.

Admittedly, I started off the day in a pretty low mood. It has come to that point of the trip where you're tired physically and mentally but you haven't quite pushed through it yet (I suspect that will come tomorrow). After my exhilarating horse ride on the beach at sunset yesterday, I woke to aching muscles, ligaments and (I'm pretty sure) bones as well. My camera has decided to die mysteriously (helpful, since I'm in charge of photography) and my favourite yellow scarf which had been a popular accessory to many of yesterday's beach photos had gone missing. Yes, the day started out gloomy despite the hot sun. The one solace was that we were allowed to sleep in, and I didn’t even do that!

So, today was all about getting out of our comfort zones and learning about other people's daily ways-of-life. This involved a short walk to the house and studio of a young man Ariebowo who lives with his parents in the Kauman neighbourhood. Besides being architecturally unique with the houses in the neighbourhood being mostly old houses built several generations ago, the Kauman village is also unique in the sense that it is a very close knit community; extended families generally live in houses nearby each other.

Colorfully painted houses in Kauman

Walking along the Kauman neighbourhood, we saw painted shutters, stone houses, pet birds greeting us with their sing-song whistle as well as large, warm smiles from the community locals. When we entered Ariebowo’s father’s studio, we sat in the front room of the house which was used to greet guests while the the inner section of the house was reserved for family. Ariebowo then explained about his father, Lukman's, batik painting work and how it is very well received in Europe particularly Germany where he predominantly sells. I discover that this is where a few of us students will return on Wednesday to try our hand at batik painting with Lukman, the master himself. Ariebowo explained how his mother wakes up early every morning, sometimes at 1am, to prepare local kues which are bought by the vendors who collect them from Ariebowo’s mother and 6am before being resold on the street by vendors. We were lucky enough that Dr Yeoh ordered a box of the delicacies for each of us. Each box contained 3 kues, one of which I liken to a quiche, a vegetable filled doughnut and a soft flat bun. Yum, yum, yum. Especially delicious to those who hadn’t had their breakfast yet.

We learned about the importance of this community to its residents. It's a Muslim sector, lived in by many members of an extended family (Ariebowo's auntie's house faces his and his grandparents live nearby) and it is rare for the house to be sold if one of the extended family decide to live elsewhere for a while. They usually rent it out or allow other family members to live in it, eventually returning because it is ultimately where they want to spend the twilight of their years in due to the familiarity and slow paced environment.

Kauman residents who have just finished their afternoon prayers

As we walked around, some of us stopping-off to pray and some to buy fruit and chat with the locals, it was pretty obvious just how happy people there are. In those tiny streets there is a policy against motorbikes so the safety and tranquility is preserved, and there seemed to be a lot of thought and dedication put in to the lay-out and maintenance of residences.

We eventually made a move, saying thank-you and goodbye loaded with new boxes of kuihs we purchased for the next community we were visiting- the river based community of Kali Code ( pronounced as cho-day).

View of Kali Code from a bridge

We spent a long couple of hours winding along the esplanade - an elevated walkway between residencies and the water - and past the brightly coloured, leafy front doors of the river locals. Kids would whoosh past us, sure-footed and full of sprite, to poke their tongues and pose for photos. I even saw spray-painted chicks (the poultry kind) in green, purple and orange. Mothers with babies would encourage them to wave to us, and gangs of teens would smirk and mutter jokes for the rest to enjoy.

Believe it or not- Colorful chicks!

Down below in the river men fished with bamboo traps and fed their noisy brace of ducks. Sadly, the people living by the river also used it as a dumping ground for rubbish and a site for defecation; I was glad to be walking up stream. Standing on a bridge across the river, I realised that this was where Dr Yeoh took the blog header photo from. So this is where the blog header-photo is from. As you could see from the photos on the blog, the walk was very scenic.

Kali Code

Once we reach our destination (an hour late) we are greeted by the community leader, Darsam, in the community hall. My first impressions were that the layout of the area was similar to that of European places based on steep embankments - full of steps and a mish-mash of levels for houses and walkways. Darsam explained his role as leader of the community in bringing the currently improved way of life to the peoples. He said it was an easy job to look after the community because the residents are dedicated to following his advice.

Walking around the whole day really helped me gain insight into Yogya and its people. I had been invited in to private spaces made by and lived in by people whose lives are so different from my own. I had been diverted from my sour attitude and engrossed in a lot that I saw. Now I'm lazing in the cyber cafe, absolutely wrecked but happy to have an appetite because of the exercise. I don't have a functioning camera, but there's a chance I'll get my scarf back and my aching body is healing. Thank you to the people who made today special and who made a grumpy foreigner smile again.

*View more pictures of the day from our photo album


WRITER'S PROFILE: Dominique or Dom as we all call her, has a mixture of English, Irish and Austro-Hungarian heritage. The Virgo who is pursuing a double major in French and Photography and minoring in Communication hails from Melbourne, Australia. Dom recalls poco-poco or line-dancing in Purawisata and walking blindfolded through the Banyan trees in Alun-alun Selatan as her favorite moments in Yogyakarta.

The Voice of Kali Code

By: Wui Jia

12 July 2009

He squatted into the river, pulled his pants down, and emptied his bowels. It was perfunctory.

Doing his business, and unfortunately, we managed to get it on tape. Sorry, stranger!

56 families live along the river, Kali Code. The river that runs between the two rows of rundown houses forms an intrinsic aspect of local life at Kali Code: defecating.

“It isn’t so bad now, the pollution, compared to last time,” said Atmo, an 84-year-old resident. He then broke into a toothless grin. When asked if anything could be done to improve life at Kali Code, he wished that prices of basic necessities could be reduced to cater to Kali Code’s meager living standards.

A sense of heritage runs rife in the community. “I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. My family is here…I would want future generations to live here too,” said Atmo, who lives with his 20-year-old grandson. 45-year-old Priyati who makes a living selling chicken noodles has adult children who live nearby in Kali Code itself. The head of Kali Code community, Drs. Darsam, boasts that strong ties bind the community together as one. When the government proposed the building of flats to replace the rundown houses, the community protested, defending these houses as important symbols of poverty that should be preserved for education. In addition, according to Drs. Darsam, if a particular family learnt that amidst the community, they were the sole recipient of a governmental financial assistance package, they would refuse to accept it as a show of solidarity with the rest of the Kali Code residents. This is to effectively avoid any potential division among the people who seem to live by the motto ‘all for one and one for all’.

Atmo and his grandson

200 people dwell in cramped, squatter-like conditions, with mattresses strewn haphazardly on the sidewalk, and clothes lines running rampant, dotting the neighbourhood. Even while they live next to a river that reeks of contamination, laughter and incessant chatter constantly resonate throughout the neighbourhood. Little children squeal as they frolic in the river, and chase one another near the doorsteps. Faces of wizened old men and women wrinkle into smiles at the sight of visitors, like us Monash students. “I like this place. It is convenient to stay here. I can walk to shops to buy things whenever I want,” said 45-year-old Priyati.

Graffiti with designs as simple as life at Kali Code splash across the wooden walls of homes with bold vigour. This vibrant energy that reverberates throughout Kali Code reflects the passion that drove the prominent Romo Mangun to spearhead projects that have improved the lives of many at Kali Code. His launching of a hunger strike to protest the local government’s decision to evict the community brought international attention to Kali Code in the year of 1986.

Romo Mangun’s desire to fight poverty lives on, etched not only in the architecture of the buildings that he designed in Kali Code but also in the heart of Drs. Darsam. As the villagers’ leader, he ran for the recent Indonesian elections with one aim in mind: to make a significant impact in the lives of Kali Code.

“Without a representative voice, there is no direct way to elicit help from the government. No one listens if you don’t have power…there has to be a voice for Kali Code, and that is my mission,” he said.

So while Atmo wishes for the installation of more basic facilities, and the little boy squats in the river and empties his bowels, they know that someone is speaking for them, and fighting for them.

Children of Kali Code

Abeer talking with one of the elders

Wui Jia and the residents of Kali Code

*View more pictures of the day from our photo album


WRITER'S PROFILE: Wui Jia is the only Psychology major (and Writing minor) in this trip. Coming from Penang (Malaysia), Wui Jia may seem like the shyest among the bunch- possibly because prior to the trip she has not known any one of the students! Yet now Wui Jia has become fast friends with all of the students in the trip.

Diary Entry: Day 3

By: Wei Jia Xi

11 July 2009

The sunrise in Indonesia is earlier than in Malaysia. At six o’clock, people are getting ready for the day’s activities. We had an early journey today, leaving around 7:10am and proceeding to leave the hotel for higher ground known as Ketep Pass, to get a view of the volcano, Mount Merapi.

It took us about an hour and a half to reach our destination. At beginning of this trip, most of us were sleeping and resting in the bus. This was not only because we needed to get up early in the morning but we had a full day scheduled for us. The scenic landscape we witnessed on the journey towards Ketep Pass was breathtaking.

View of Mount Merapi from inside the bus

Snapping away on our cameras, the views, such as the one captured above made me wonder whether these farmers realize the dangers of living near an active volcano. Nana, our student guide gave me more information on the matter. According to her, Javanese people are aware that they will have to pay the price of reaping the benefits of volcanic soil and they understand the risks of being near an active volcano. They love the land deeply because the share a bond between the land and the volcano, connected by a person known as Mbah Maridjan, their ‘spiritual leader’. Nana told me that Javanese people rely on the information from him more than the government and they will not budge unless he commands them to do so.

Mount Merapi during an eruption

As the bus continued to ascend the dirt road, the temperature began to drop. When we reached Ketep Pass, everybody was shivering from the strong winds that were blowing. We took many photos given the picturesque landscape in the background.

After that, we made our way to the Ketep Volcano Centre, which exhibits educational materials on Mount Merapi. A model of the volcano at the center of the museum showed us the movement of volcanic activities, as did The Ketep Volcano Theatre which provided us a documentary of the volcano.

After the screening, we had a half hour of free sight-seeing time until we continued our journey to “one of the forgotten wonders “—Borobudur. Borobudur is a ninth-century Mahayana Buddhist Monument in Magelang, in Central Java. We had a guide to introduce us to the history background of the Borobudur. The tourists comprise primarily of locals who oddly enough, were very keen to take pictures with us. One begins to wonder whether we were as inconspicuous as we believed ourselves to be.

Candi Borobudur

Finally, we arrived at our last stop for the day—Parangtritis, the south beach. According to folklore, the queen of the South Sea loves the colour green and anyone found wearing it run the risk of being dragged into the ocean as her slave. We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly at the beach, where Dominique took a horse ride along the beach side. Shazwan and Rashaad played the role of street musicians and managed to earn 14500RPs. We rounded it off with another group photo against the background of the sunset, our longest day but by far the best day yet.

Sunset at Parangtritis Beach

*View pictures of the day from our photo album


WRITER'S PROFILE: Wei Jia Xi or Cici, is studying Bachelor of Arts majoring in Communication. Coming from Chongqing, China, Cici loves to eat spicy food and has a particular interest in film and video recording. She is part of the video team, where she has learned new things, and feels thankful for having the opportunity to participate in this trip

The Land of Volcanoes

By: Aron Raj

11 July 2009

When I first arrived in Yogyakarata, I was only aware of Mt.Merapi, one of the world’s most active volcanos located on island of Jawa. Today’s entourage journey took us to the Ketep Pass, a viewing point for the volcanoes of surrounding the central Java Island.

Little did I know that Yogyakarta was home to not just Mt.Merapi but also to a number of other volcanoes. From the viewing point atop the hill at Ketep Pass, we could see the hot steam blowing out from the mouth of Mt.Merapi. The strong breeze did not turn down our spirits to take photos and also admire what I would say as the living jewel of Java.

Words cannot describe the view of this magnificent formation of nature. Although Mt. Merapi remains active, there were also a few dead volcanoes surrounding it. On the opposite lay Mt.Serembau and Mt.Senai, 2 extinct volcanoes believed to have erupted even before the formation of the new Mt.Merapi. The earlier volcano located just beside it, was believed to have erupted some 1000 years ago. It has now become a site for tourists to hike up and have a panoramic view of Mt.Merapi.

The spectacular view of Mount Merapi

Over the years of its existence, Mt.Merapi has been believed to have consumed thousands of lives. Some 1000 years ago, an eruption caused the ancient Hindu-Buddhist civilization in Borobudur to be covered in ashes. Other major eruptions were recorded in the 1800s and the 1900s. The last eruption in 2007 had seen the evacuation of many people living around the mountain.

Although the volcanoes of Java have claimed many lives, it has also enabled the agriculture industry through fertilizing the land. As our bus journeyed slowly up the steep roads to Ketep Pass, we could see the blossoms of vegetation all around us. From paddy to tobacco to vegetables, it seemed as if that there was never a volcanic eruption. The ashes and lava on the land over the years have enriched the soil making it perfect for vegetation.

From the top, we could see that the whole area around the volcano was indeed green with vegetation. What amazed me most was that the people were willing to come back to their farms and continue with life although they knew the situation they are facing. And it amazes me even more to imagine what it would have been liked to live in Borobudur during its prime near the active volcanoes. I also learnt that Mt.Merapi is considered to be sacred among many and occasional ceremonies are held.

As we spent our time taking pictures of the volcano and admiring nature, I realized sometimes it doesn’t really matter how close to death one may live. I guess the most important thing is to believe that life will go on. The volcanoes of Java may have taken a lot from the Javanese people but they have rewarded them as well in many ways. Whatever it may be, the volcanoes of Java certainly have proved their point. The living jewel of Java will surely continue to give the people something to live up to.

Posing in front of the natural beauty

*View more pictures of the day from our photo album


WRITER'S PROFILE: Aron Raj is a Monash Alumni, currently working with The Star (a Malaysian newspaper), as a video journalist. He has joined several study trips organized by Dr Yeoh previously. In his own words, Aron is "single & available". He chose to write about volcanoes because he found them "hot & cool at the same time". Aron believes that "Real Men Like Fire".

Indonesian Society for Social Transformation (INSIST)

By: Marina Tan

10 July 2009

On 10th July 2009, a group of 18 Monash University Sunway Campus students gathered at the Yogyakarta INSIST Centre, as part of a study trip to explore Yogyakarta’s cultural and political climate. The group was received by Mr Roem Topatimasang, a senior committee member of INSIST. Moderator of the session, Australian exchange student Joanna Molloy got the ball rolling by introducing the Monash group to the INSIST staff and inviting Mr Topatimasang to introduce INSIST, giving a brief idea of its history, vision and the challenges faced when implementing its aim of achieving a self sufficient Indonesia.

Founded in 1997 by a group of like-minded activist, INSIST initially stood for Institute for Social Transformation. On 20th May 2004, the INSIST committee members unanimously signed the Declaration of the New Insist, effectively changing INSIST to be an abbreviation for the Indonesian Society for Social Transformation. This change of name was in line with the organisation’s aim to be more inclusive to the whole Indonesian nation and to avoid the flaw of centralisation according to a senior INSIST committee member Mr Roem Topatimasang.

Mr Roem Topatimasang smiling for the camera

In line with INSIST’s vision of transforming Indonesia’s agriculture sector from a very commercial-orientated venture into a venture which focuses more on agricultural and energy self- sufficiency, the 10 acres of land where the INSIST Centre in Yogyakarta is built upon is a showroom of self-sufficient organic farming, being surrounded by model organic paddy fields and rows of chilli plants. A wooden building behind the office is made out of sustainable local wood beams and banisters made out of coconut trunks. Below the building is a container with the capacity to collect cattle manure and legumes-material for biofuel, one of the forms of sustainable energy being promoted by INSIST. According to Mr Topatimasang, biofuel was more suitable for the Indonesian villagers as it did not require the installation of the expensive solar panels required to convert solar power into energy.

Because INSIST is merely a supporting organisation and not an implementing organisation, INSIST is not involved directly with the scientific aspect of research on agriculture. Instead,its member organisations will conduct the necessary research and send its findings to INSIST who will then implement the findings such as the more effective methods of planting rice on the model paddy fields in the INSIST Centre compound. As mentioned by Mr Topatimasang INSIST focuses on exposing the system of self sufficient agriculture to the rural farmers.

INSIST's lovely backyard

When asked about the main obstacles in achieving their vision, Mr Topatimasang shrugged and said that “The biggest challenge would be changing the mindset of the rural farmers”. Having been used to farming being strictly regulated under the Suharto regime and following government recommendations for the growing of crops, most farmers have been ingrained with the mindset that farming is for the commercial market and not for the purpose of achieving self-sufficiency. Nonetheless, Mr Topatimasang says that the people are now open to the idea of farming for self- sufficiency, but the problem remains that many farmers lack the knowledge and accessible information on self-sufficient organic farming. This is where INSIST plays an important role in making the information on self-sufficient farming available to the rural farmers. This is either done through formal methods such as workshops and seminars or informal methods like participating in the villagers everyday activities of fishing or simply by having a drink while informing them about self- sufficient organic farming.

Asked by a Monash student on whether the organic products produced by the farmers were sold commercially, Mr Topatimasang adamantly shook his head and said commercialising the produce would just defeat the purpose of the whole self-sufficient organic farming which focuses on the grassroot level of agriculture, in this case, the rural farmers. Instead, Mr Topatimasang said INSIST’s main revenue were from research published by its publishing house, and the fees imposed on its member organisations.

“It is all about autonomy, a person could be politically autonomous, but if he depended on others to supply food, he would not really be autonomous”,claimed Mr Topatimasang. He explained that if one had enough food for himself, he maintains his own autonomy and depends on no one. A staunch supporter of human rights, Mr Topatimasang believes that the fundamental human right is self-dependence, not just at the national level but done via the achieving of collaboration with several players in the field.

A group picture of the travelers with Pak Roem

*View more pictures of the day from our photo album


WRITER'S PROFILE: Marina is a final year student at Monash University Malaysia, doing a double in the Bachelor of Arts in Writing and International Studies. Marina is from Malacca and was particularly impressed by INSIST which opened her eyes to the alternatives to capitalist free market. She finds INSIST fascinating as it is a real-life example of the theories she has learnt in her International Studies unit.